Sunday, July 16, 2006 10:39 PM
by
will
Futbol crazy!
So the World Cup is over. Italy
won the low-scoring, tied, all-European finale in a penalty shootout. They
managed this after needling the golden boy of French football into a
self-destructive, pre-retirement implosion guaranteed to ensure that, despite a
breathtaking career, he is destined to be remembered as a first degree chokemeister.
Excitement, novelty and sportsmanship: it showcased all that is best about the beautiful
game.
In truth, the sum-total of my World Cup television consumption was about twenty
minutes. There were two reasons for this. First, as an American it's simply not
in my blood. Everyone knows what happens to the American team in the World Cup,
so there isn't generally much of an opportunity to root for my own team.
We also don't have any international rivalry that fires us up. Maybe if North Korea or Osama Bin Laden fielded a team Americans would pay attention. But probably not. Nevertheless, I'm pretty internationalized and every time the tournament rolls
around I try to whip up some enthusiasm. But about ten minutes into the opening
round, as I'm watching two banana republics from opposite hemispheres duel with
each other, I can already feel the ennui wrapping around me like cling-film. So
I tell people, "I'll watch the elimination round". And then,
"I'm waiting for the quarters." Followed by, "Well, you know,
when the semis roll around I'll really get excited." And the inevitable,
"The finals? Dude, I'm totally there." But at each stage I
miraculously find something better to do.
This year, that something was sleep. I definitely watched more football when
the World Cup was held in Korea
and I was living in Singapore,
just because it was easier to stumble onto the games by accident. In 1994 I
actually went to two raucous Brazil
games during the US World Cup. But with the tournament being held in Europe
this year, it was a lost cause here in China.
Best-case games started at 10 or 11 PM,
often on weeknights. The really interesting ones tended to kick off at the comatose
hour of 3:00 AM, when only pontianaks and the lounge lizards they
prey on are awake. The blunt truth is that in the great television scheduling
conflict between Europe, America
and Asia, Asia gets the finger. A
good friend of mine spent several nights crashing at my apartment to watch
those pre-dawn games because I have a bigger TV and a nicer couch than she
does. She actually woke herself up at 3:00 AM
to watch these games. Mrs. Imagethief and I would check the results with her at
breakfast.
Awkward timing aside, the tournament seemed to make a big splash in Beijing,
even though the Chinese team wasn't invited to the party and proxy Asians Korea
made an early exit (despite the motivating sex appeal of their fans). Every
taxi driver I've met for the past month has been ready to spout forth with
analysis on the games and the fortunes of the teams. Almost all of them
indicated a preference for Germany,
which I ascribed to home-team appeal, or Brazil,
which is hard to argue with under any circumstances. Most were philosophical
about China's lack
of participation. The general sense was that as long as the Japanese weren't
headed for the finals, it was OK. All claimed to have been watching the games
pretty regularly.
I found the high rate of taxi driver viewership alarming. I have few illusions
about taxis in Beijing, but one
that I'd rather like to maintain is that the drivers, despite their often poor
navigation and habit of making Speed Racer-style neck-snapping lane
changes, are at least well rested and alert. Learning that the driver who is
currently looking over his shoulder to talk to me also hasn't slept in thirty
hours does not put me at ease. I hope there was something stronger than green
tea in those jam jars.
I didn't watch many games, but in the spirit
of World Cup togetherness I did go out to play some court football with my
friends at the Red Ball club on Gongti. If you've not been there, the Red Ball
has two fenced-off, quarter-sized, astro-turfed football pitches. It's a great
place for a little fast-paced four-on-four, although the black gravel they lay
on the astro turf has an annoying habit of getting into your socks and etching
the flesh from your ankle bones. It was there that I was reacquainted one the inevitable
result of my American upbringing: I suck at football.
Someday, when the United States
is Hispanic majority, I am sure that the US
will field a truly world class football side. In fact, as far as I'm concerned,
that is a good reason for essentially open immigration from Latin
America (no Canadians, please -- we've already got hockey
handled), and the people who want to build a wall along the southern border
simply aren't thinking strategically. My hope is that the Latinization --if I
may use that word-- of America will bring with it the street-level,
working-class love of football that is necessary if a country is to ever really
compete at the global level. As long as football --"soccer"-- remains
a family-friendly, suburban American diversion for middle class schoolchildren
who don't make their high school football or baseball teams, there is no hope.
I am a middle-class suburban American. I played one year of interscholastic
soccer in middle school and one year of AYSO soccer in high school. I was a
fullback, which is the high school soccer equivalent of right field, which is
the baseball position in which they put kids who they hope will never, ever have
to field a fly ball. I also played right field, but let's not dwell on that.
The thing is, I am a clear product of American sandlot sports. While I am not
great at football or baseball, I can actually field a ground ball and shag a
fly into the outfield simply because of the countless hours spent playing
"three flies up". I never played a moment of organized American
football, but I can throw one forty
yards because of all the sandlot and flag games I played over the years. That's
the way it goes for Americans. But European --proper-- football? Forget it.
I was reminded of the tragic athletic cost of my birthright at this kick-around
last week, which was heavily attended by Chinese, Australians and, yes, French
people. All of them played with the journeyman comfort of people who, while not
professional, had grown up kicking around a football (well, perhaps not the
Australians). They dribbled with precision, made off-foot kicks, passed
accurately, and shot on goal with finesse. I tripped over the ball, had it roll
between my feet and, on one of the few occasions where I made solid contact
with it, chipped it out of the court and into the al fresco restaurant
tables next door.
But I had a good time anyway. There we were; four nationalities playing
together in Beijing. And that's the
charm of the game. I'll stand toe-to-toe with anyone and argue the
entertainment merits of televised American football vs. European football. I'll
wax poetic about the fun of a Saturday afternoon at the baseball park. But, the
unpleasantness with Zidane aside, nothing brings people together like football.
You can pretty much go to any remote, impoverished, pre-industrial corner of
the world and stand a decent chance of stumbling into a pick-up game. And it
warms my heart to know that, should I find myself in any of those backwaters, kicking
it around with the locals, I'll still suck.